Distortion Generator potentiometers

A family of high-end analog DI and effects gear.
Fireful0
Posts: 198
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: Distortion Generator potentiometers

Post by Fireful0 »

Yeah, one of these days I am gonna need to buy some switches for my X100.
The chorus / echo on, off, norm, switch is slowly going out.
That's the problem with switches. They only have a limited life span. :cry:
X100Ver10
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:49 pm

Re: Distortion Generator potentiometers

Post by X100Ver10 »

Fireful0 wrote:Yeah, one of these days I am gonna need to buy some switches for my X100.
The chorus / echo on, off, norm, switch is slowly going out.
That's the problem with switches. They only have a limited life span. :cry:
If you haven't done so already, spray some electronic contact cleaner (Deoxit D5 or CRC) inside the switches. Works wonders. Let it dry though before using the amp. ;)

If you have to replace that DP3T switch in the future, the CW part number is GI-154-0007 (the character after the G is an i, not a number one). CW doesn't make them anymore though. :(
Fireful0
Posts: 198
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: Distortion Generator potentiometers

Post by Fireful0 »

Awesome info! Thanks!
X100Ver10
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:49 pm

Re: Distortion Generator potentiometers

Post by X100Ver10 »

X100Ver10 wrote:
Fireful0 wrote:That is almost an identical match! :o
Pretty great price, too!
I'm still not having much luck on the switches though. I'm having difficulty getting someone at CW Industries to return my phone call. Maybe I should say that I'm in need of 5 million switches. :D
Well, it helps if my contact at CW still worked there. It seems that he has been gone for awhile but nobody deleted his phone extension & voice mail message. No wonder I never received a return phone call! :roll: Waiting on the new contact to research the part numbers for the switches.
X100Ver10
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:49 pm

Re: Distortion Generator potentiometers

Post by X100Ver10 »

FYI - The Bourns slide potentiometers that I ordered will not work. The solder legs do not line up with the holes in the circuit board. Please disregard any Bourns part numbers that you may have seen in this thread.

The Alpha slide potentiometer does work. The only difference is the black knob has a white line down the middle and the originals do not. The correct Alpha part number is RA2043F-20-10EB1-A100K. This part number is for the 2 larger slide pots on the Rockman DG.
X100Ver10
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:49 pm

Re: Distortion Generator potentiometers

Post by X100Ver10 »

X100Ver10 wrote:
X100Ver10 wrote:
Fireful0 wrote:That is almost an identical match! :o
Pretty great price, too!
I'm still not having much luck on the switches though. I'm having difficulty getting someone at CW Industries to return my phone call. Maybe I should say that I'm in need of 5 million switches. :D
Well, it helps if my contact at CW still worked there. It seems that he has been gone for awhile but nobody deleted his phone extension & voice mail message. No wonder I never received a return phone call! :roll: Waiting on the new contact to research the part numbers for the switches.
The new sales contact person at CW wasn't any help compared to the last guy. They changed their minimum to 5000 pieces and I think she knows I'm not a big fish. I couldn't even get complete part numbers for the old switches from her. Oh well.

I did get some new CW switches to work however. Here is what I found and bought at Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/629-G128S3011 (3 position switch for Distortion Harmonics)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/629-G141S3011 (4 position switch for Sustain)

3 problems with these switches:

1) They have mount tabs. The tabs would be in the way when installed.
2) They have solder lugs. The solder lugs are too big and will not fit in the circuit board holes.
3) The black plastic knob is shorter than the original.

I did the following:

1) Cut off the mount tabs.
2) Gently bent the small tabs that hold the switches together and took the old and new switches apart. I used the black plastic knob and the solder pins & board from the old switch and put them together with the remaining parts from the new switch.

Voila! New switches. Well, almost new. New looking, at least. Better than the rusty/pitted looking crap that was in there. :D They installed just like the originals and work great! Now I just have to figure out why I'm getting a loud hissing out of the DG. :roll: