My rig

A dedicated forum for posting pictures and other information about Rockman rigs.
Fireful0
Posts: 190
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: My rig

Post by Fireful0 » Thu Dec 28, 2017 2:42 am

Yeah all these LM386N-1 are socketed in. :)
The reason I am starting with this instead of capacitors is because I really don't have a way to solder right now.
Living in an apartment, atm. There are some LM386N-1s around here, so I will see what happens.
If that doesn't fix it, we will go straight to the caps.

Fireful0
Posts: 190
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: My rig

Post by Fireful0 » Thu Dec 28, 2017 4:28 pm

I have a gut feeling that X100Ver10's theory is right, and that I am going to need to replace the capacitors, so for anyone else in my situation, below are the values for the electrolytic capacitors that are required for a Rev10 X100:

Main board:
2x 3.3 uf
1x 10 uf
1x 22 uf
1x 220 uf

Reverb board:
2x 3.3 uf
4x 220 uf

X100Ver10
Posts: 89
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:49 pm

Re: My rig

Post by X100Ver10 » Thu Dec 28, 2017 7:03 pm

Fireful0 wrote:I have a gut feeling that X100Ver10's theory is right, and that I am going to need to replace the capacitors, so for anyone else in my situation, below are the values for the electrolytic capacitors that are required for a Rev10 X100:

Main board:
2x 3.3 uf
1x 10 uf
1x 22 uf
1x 220 uf

Reverb board:
2x 3.3 uf
4x 220 uf
Looks good. I would only add that the voltages are:

Main board:
2x 3.3 uf 50v
1x 10 uf 16v or 35v or 50v (I have seen all 3 voltages, usually 35v, occasionally 16v, rarely 50v)
1x 22 uf 16v
1x 220 uf 16v

Reverb board:
2x 3.3 uf 50v
4x 220 uf 16v

Fireful0
Posts: 190
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: My rig

Post by Fireful0 » Fri Dec 29, 2017 1:24 am

X100Ver10 wrote:
Looks good. I would only add that the voltages are:

Main board:
2x 3.3 uf 50v
1x 10 uf 16v or 35v or 50v (I have seen all 3 voltages, usually 35v, occasionally 16v, rarely 50v)
1x 22 uf 16v
1x 220 uf 16v

Reverb board:
2x 3.3 uf 50v
4x 220 uf 16v
Thanks sir! Voltages will definitely be good to know, also. :lol:
Well, as ya stated, it definitely has to be a bad cap. Tested without that weird looking IC, nothing changed, except losing the left side of the headphones.
Probably gonna use a capacitor tester to see which one is bad, or maybe just replace all of them. We will have to see. ;)
In the meantime, gonna pick up some stuff to get rid of this gross tape residue. :lol:

X100Ver10
Posts: 89
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:49 pm

Re: My rig

Post by X100Ver10 » Fri Dec 29, 2017 1:56 am

Fireful0 wrote:
X100Ver10 wrote:
Looks good. I would only add that the voltages are:

Main board:
2x 3.3 uf 50v
1x 10 uf 16v or 35v or 50v (I have seen all 3 voltages, usually 35v, occasionally 16v, rarely 50v)
1x 22 uf 16v
1x 220 uf 16v

Reverb board:
2x 3.3 uf 50v
4x 220 uf 16v
Thanks sir! Voltages will definitely be good to know, also. :lol:
Well, as ya stated, it definitely has to be a bad cap. Tested without that weird looking IC, nothing changed, except losing the left side of the headphones.
Probably gonna use a capacitor tester to see which one is bad, or maybe just replace all of them. We will have to see. ;)
In the meantime, gonna pick up some stuff to get rid of this gross tape residue. :lol:
In order to properly test an electrolytic capacitor, it should be out of circuit. As long as you already have one lead unsoldered for testing, you might as well unsolder the other lead and replace the capacitor.

I use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to get rid of tape residue. Take it easy when near the printing though. Sometimes it removes the printing, most times not. I think SR&D may have changed their printing process sometime during it's run of headphone amps.

Fireful0
Posts: 190
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: My rig

Post by Fireful0 » Fri Dec 29, 2017 3:42 am

Managed to get all of the tape residue off with some "Goo Gone"
Spent about 15 minutes being VERY, VERY careful. So, the logo is still on, which is good. :lol:
Image
Gonna see which is cheaper, buying all new caps, or buying a capacitor tester.
(Yes. I already know which will be cheaper, but shipping is always the killer) ;)
Edit: Decided to go with the capacitor replacement.
Update in about a week when they get here!

Fireful0
Posts: 190
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: My rig

Post by Fireful0 » Wed Jan 03, 2018 6:28 pm

Alright, so I spend over 30 bucks to get capacitors, tools, soldering iron, etc... to replace the caps.
All to find out, that they didn't fix my problem! :lol: Oh well. At least they are new, and the X100 will last for many more years.

That being said, I was looking at internal pics of X100's, and noticed that most have LEDs in the top right, and below the sound switcher of the main board, such as can be seen in the pic below: (THIS IS NOT MY X100)
Image

HOWEVER, mine has none of these! (Outlined in yellow)
Image

SO, does anyone know the values of these LEDs? I am certain that after I replace them, my X100 will sounds as good as new!
Thanks in advance!!!
.


- A person in dire need of help
Last edited by Fireful0 on Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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darthoverdrive
Posts: 56
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Kansas

Re: My rig

Post by darthoverdrive » Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:26 pm

From what I know all three are 3mm red LEDs. D114 is used in the compressor circuit and D115 and D116 in the distortion circuit for that sweet Rockman sound.

X100Ver10
Posts: 89
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:49 pm

Re: My rig

Post by X100Ver10 » Thu Jan 04, 2018 2:43 pm

As far as I know, all 3mm red LED's have the same values. I have bought these in the past:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/566928

You can get LED's really cheap on eBay too.

FYI - Similar to the polar electrolytic capacitors, the LED's have to go in a certain way. Since the old ones are gone and you can't look at the orientation before removing them, let me know if you need help with that. I can look at one of my X100's for guidance.

Fireful0
Posts: 190
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:00 pm

Re: My rig

Post by Fireful0 » Thu Jan 04, 2018 4:38 pm

X100Ver10 wrote:As far as I know, all 3mm red LED's have the same values. I have bought these in the past:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/566928

You can get LED's really cheap on eBay too.

FYI - Similar to the polar electrolytic capacitors, the LED's have to go in a certain way. Since the old ones are gone and you can't look at the orientation before removing them, let me know if you need help with that. I can look at one of my X100's for guidance.
Thanks, guys!
As for the position, I actually think I may have that covered. I am using a picture to guide me through it. :)
Image

And, I am also using this to help guide direction it will go in, as the X100 has symbols next to the area the LED will go.
Image